Name: ________________________

Study Sheet - Test 5 - Geol V11 (Oceanography) - Chapters 9 & 10

An orbital wave is a kind of _________ wave (174)

Capillary waves are excited by _________ and restored by _________. (176)

The distance between successive crests (or troughs) determines wave: (175)

Gravity is the __________ force affecting waves over 1.73 (0.68 inches) centimeters long. (176)

The term fetch describes: (180)

When wind energy is transmitted to the sea surface, causing waves to form, it is called a _____ force. (175)

When planning for the World War II D-Day beach landings, the planners took into account the ________ to make their decision on when to launch the attack. (video)

The 1:7 ratio of wave ___________ to _________ is used to characterize moderately-sized waves in the open ocean. (180)

A shoreward-moving wave train first “feels” the bottom when: (175)

The high-velocity components of a water mass returning seaward after a break are called: (video/234)

When a wave at sea exceeds its 1:7 ratio for steepness, it will break and form: (180)

Internal waves are usually formed at the: (video)

When a wave approaching shore reaches a 3:4 ratio of height to water depth, it will: (184)

The largest wave yet accurately recorded was 112 feet, calculated as its: (video/181)

One of the major concerns regarding rising sea levels is that, currently, about ______ of the U.S. population lives in coastal areas. (video)

Which of these is not of major concern related to rising sea levels? (video)

What caused the destruction of the Scotch Cap lighthouse on Unimak Island, Alaska in 1946? (190+)

Because their wavelength is always more than the water depth, tsunami are categorized as: (188)

A tsunami will seldom be detected by a ship at sea because: (189)

The statement has been made that, unlike wind waves, one could not duck under or dive into, a tsunami wave and have it pass over you, because: (188)

The Thames Tidal Defense system is designed to protect against: (186)

When describing a standing wave, the point where there is no vertical movement is called the: (187F)

Damage from seiches along most open coasts is: (186)

Which of the following statements is untrue concerning tsunami? (187)

Which of these statements is true about tsunami? (187)

In a closed system, such as Switzerland’s Lake Geneva, how might a seiche originate? (186)

A seismic sea wave can be formed by: (187)

If the movement along a subsea fault, leading to formation of a seismic sea wave, were initially downward, the resulting depression in the sea surface would initiate propagation as a: (188)

The period of a tsunami is usually measured in: (189)

What is the most important factor in determining the location of a shoreline? (213)

A storm surge is not technically a wave because: (185)

If the source of energy for a tsunami is far away (such as in the Aleutian Trench), it will probably reach the shores of Hawaii as: (190+)

Certain areas are more susceptible to generating tsunamis because of: (video)

During the full and new moons the tractive forces acting on Earth are: (200)

The mass flowing of water due to sea level changes caused by passage of tidal crests or troughs is called: (206)

Tides are called forced waves because the forces that influence them: (196)

The forces that generate tides are __________ proportional to the __________ of the distance between Earth’s center and the center of the tide-generating object. (196)

The largest tidal ranges occur: (204)

The tidal bulge is, theoretically, the ________ of a progressive wave. (201)

Considering the two water bulges in Newton’s theory, the one closest to the moon is the result of: (198F)

The Earth-moon system actually revolves: (197+)

In the Southern Hemisphere, water in an ocean basin moves _______ around an amphidromic point. (204)

The reference level to which tidal height is compared is called the: (204)

Tidal fluctuations consume a great deal of energy, most of which comes from: (206)

The same side of the moon is always facing Earth because: (207)

Recent research has shown that, as a result of tidal friction, the moon is: (video)

Many scientists believe that the ____ is the single most important aspect of the entire tidal process. (video)

How much longer is the lunar tidal day than Earth’s 24-hour day? (199)

Water in an ocean basin, moving as a tidal wave, tends to move to the right due to: (203)

An ebb current occurs _________ slack water. (206)